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Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Brownsville







Adrian gave me good instructions: take a left on University Avenue to 7th street and go north on Hwy 77. The two restaurants he recommended would be off the street where the new Starbucks is. University also took me through the historic section of town, which reminded me of Little Mexico.

And I liked what I saw. Even though the crowded shops looked like the mercado in El Paso's downtown, the palm trees along the street and the music added some character. But what kind of birds was I hearing? Not grackles, certainly. One historic building had a speaker blaring out bird songs that even had me confused, until I learned the taped bird calls kept the grackles off the trees, thus eliminating bird poop on the property.

People were still busy shopping. Almost everyone was Mexican out looking for cheap goods from China. I just wanted to walk around and take photographs of the old buildings.

By 6pm I was ready to drive to the restaurant, but on my way there managed to drive passed the city's courthouse where several Hillary volunteers were standing holding signs for passer-bys. I simply had to stop and photograph them. All three thought I was a press reporter and posed for me. The elder woman even tried to recruit me as a volunteer for tomorrow's event (it would guarantee me front-row seating at the auditorium Clinton will be speaking at.)

But my conscience tells me that is not the right thing to do. First, because I'm unsure of whom to vote for, and second because I am registered Independent in Arizona. It wouldn't be right to get politically active in Texas. Fun, sure, but not right. I thanked the volunteers and went on my way to find either restaurant.

And just my luck, I spotted the new Starbucks right away off the highway, and the yellow Vermillion sign behind that. I also saw the crowded parking lot. I pulled into the last empty space, grabbed my laptop and went inside.

To my surprise I was welcomed to the counter and the server even offered to plug my laptop in. Now that is the first time that's happened to me. I ordered a delicious chicken plate with fajita chicken wrapped in corn tortillas, Entomatadas, covered in real Swiss cheese and not the fake orange cheese that so many restaurants sell as cheese. For $9.29 this was the real deal. I accompanied my meal with one Dos Equis beer as I went over today's photos while eating.

The restaurant was packed. A birthday party of 26 people had reserved the bar area so all the customers were crowded into the dining room. Behind me sat a table of six rather loud and slightly inebriated Winter Texans talking about their recent trip into Mexico. It's amazing that no matter what the age of the drinker is, drunk is obnoxious at any age, from teenager to grizzled white head.
These Winter Texans, retirees from the colder Great Plains states, come down here in the winter and "are great for the local economy" said Adrian earlier.

Esther, one of the older workers, was my server. She has been working at the Vermillion for over 15 years. "Most of the workers here have been here 10-15 years." she said proudly. She pointed to one other elderly woman who has been working for the family restaurant for 40 years. That's very impressive since the place started in 1934, a year before my mother was born. Later this year the owners are building a bigger restaurant off Hwy77. I was very pleased with my meal and the service and was glad Adrian suggested such a fine dining experience.


I spent $17 on food and $36 on food. Brownsville is only 27 miles from Port Isabel but by the time I stopped for the night I had driven in and around town for 165 miles. My first day in "The Valley" was much more pleasant than I expected. The locals are truly a loving and gracious people.

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